June 18, 2012 The Daily Beast
I first lived in New York in 1979. Used as I was to British bookselling of that time, which was dominated by the century-old chain of WH Smith—newspaper, magazine, tobacco, and toy sellers, as much as books—the Manhattan bookstores struck me as cultural treasures. Certainly, the Barnes & Noble flagship store on Fifth Avenue was just a vast remainder outlet (as were all their stores in those days), but the Doubleday chain—yes, a chain—gave the city a quality of bookselling I thought then unmatched anywhere else in the world. The stock was eclectic and intelligent, the staff opinionated and knowledgeable, and the opening hours, reaching deep into the evening, perfect for the bustling evening life of the city.
Across Fifth Avenue from Barnes & Noble was the iconic Rizzoli store—paneled, self-confident, sophisticated, and lovely—but all too grand for me. Saturday afternoons were for the Strand, at 828 Broadway, with its marvelous, mouthwatering 18 miles of shelves, all in happy disorder. Or, best of all perhaps, Books and Co. up beside the Whitney on Madison and 74th. If there was ever one model for what became a few years later my Waterstones stores, Books and Co. was probably it: a reader’s and an author’s place; quiet, expert, modest, and friendly, wholly self-confident, demonstrably comfortable in its own skin.
The bookselling London I returned to in 1982 was just as I had left it. Depressingly so. WH Smith’s market domination was within a market showing dependable annual compound growth, leaving good scraps for the independents to share. Foyles strutted its stuff on the edges of Soho—rather like the Strand in N.Y.C., but not as good. There was the huge Dillon’s store in Bloomsbury, seemingly kept permanently closed by its trade union, and the lovely Hatchards, on prime Piccadilly, owned at that time by Collins, the publishers. One or two niche independents made their precarious livings around town, but, in truth, so few were of any quality. The exception, and 30 years later it still is, was the superb John Sandoe, housed in a tiny Regency cottage, just off Chelsea’s Kings Road, books piled high on the floor, overloaded shelves reaching right up to the ceiling. In contrast to New York however, not one of them—literally not one—was so much as open on Saturday afternoons, let alone into weekday evenings. The High Hill Bookshop, up in North London’s Hampstead, quite possibly the most literary-leaning residential district in any city in the world, used, hilariously, to turn its lights out, whatever the time of day, if there were no customers browsing in the shop.